I was thinking I could download that manual to my phone to have it handy. I've now also purchased a CD copy of a manual supposedly for the dozer but contradicts the other. I received a TM-1111 manual with the dozer. Figured I may as well then do all my fluids while I have it tore apart on the bottom. in the rear, the hitch and weights hang down lower. Wishing I'd have set that up on something or at least tipped the bucket all the way down before draining the oil. Any tips on taking off the belly pan the first time? Looks like lots more room going under from the front but I have the loader there. Was thinking then I could find the line's path and then and take it apart somewhere under the tractor and get that drained too. I've not yet had the belly covers off yet. I also read about the cooler on the bottom of the radiator and see a couple good sized lines to drain there as well. I can see that big line coming out the bottom of the reservoir, taking a couple bends and then heading forward and want to get that drained too. Anyway, got about 12-13 gal of that stuff out of the reservoir. It looked like a thick chocolate malt that's half melted! Had an odd smell too. HOLY CRAP, I've never seen oil come out like that! I worked on a lot of wheeled tractors on the farm growing up. Had the chance to find the plug and drain the hydraulic reservoir on the 555 today. Take your time, oIl is cheap compared to parts. Transmissions and hydraulic systems are several thousand dollars of parts and labor to fix or replace ( not to mention lost production with the machine). I usually run some seafoam in the systems once they are clean to draw out light moisture afterwards. Run machine to warm everything thing up and repeat. Replace all filters and fill sumps with fresh oil. etc) and just changing the sump oils will quickly contaminate new oil. Just remember, everything still has water in them (torque converter, pistons, lines. If I am dealing with contamination I usually disconnect as many components as possible and used compressed air to blow out residual oil. Let everything drain for a couple of days (be surprised at how much will come out). Getting moisture contamination out can be a project. If the systems are contaminated with water I would warm the tractor up under no load and then drain them. Transmission and steering clutches share a common sump, but are drained and filled separately. Steering clutches have drain plugs as well (Allen heads).īe prepared for about 20 gallons between the systems. Transmission drain plug is under machine (1 1/8" or 1 1/4" socket to remove). Reservoirs are usually pressurized to keep out dust, so remove fill cap first to let out pressure. Remove the panel and there will be a pipe plug at the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir. Standing at the back of the machine the hydraulic drain plug is located behind the trim panel on the right hand side.
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